Rough sea, surrounded by steep cliffs, daylight begins to fade. Suðuroy, the southernmost of the Faroe Islands, Vágseiði on the west coast. How did I get here? Ferry route 7, ship M/F Smyril, from Tórshavn to Tvøroyri. Traveling time: approximately 1h 55 min – depending on the weather. Smooth passage? Not invariably the case, especially in the fall and in the dead of winter.
Since I don’t get seasick, it makes no difference to me. Listening to the sound of the waves, careless dwelling on thoughts. Then, all the sudden, an aha experience, accompanied by feelings of guilt. Honestly: What do I actually know about sailing in really bad weather? All over the archipelago, memorials have been built over time, to honor those who have lost their lives at sea. A vast number of human tragedies.
Standing here at Vágseiði, I can’t help but think about me visiting the National Museum of the Faroe Islands. The department of fisheries, vessels and seafaring is my favorite, perfectly representing the precarious relation between man and nature. The waves ooze charm tonight? Don’t get too close. It’s cold at the bottom of the sea, and the nasty hobgoblin of Vágseiði is always on the prowl.
Faroese National Heritage on the net: The exhibition. Ferry 7 Tvøroyri - Tórshavn, timetable: ssl.fo